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FEATURE: Determining the NATURALNESS of a Product
by Andrea DesJardins
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| As consumers become more aware
of the impact our industrial processes have on our health and the environment,
more and more people are demanding 'natural' products. But what exactly
is a 'natural' product?
Natural vs. Artificial
The definition of 'natural' is "produced or existing in nature." The
definition of 'artificial' is "made by human work." In contrast, the definition
of 'synthetic' is "produced by chemical synthesis, not by natural process."
There are two types of products that often carry the 'natural' label.
The first are products that use natural materials to produce a product
that would appear on its own without human intervention, which is the true
definition of natural. The second are products made from natural ingredients
but that would not otherwise exist on its own, without human intervention.
Lets look at a couple quick examples:
An example of a natural product made from natural ingredients is wine.
The fruit, sugar and yeast used to make wine occur naturally and do not
require human intervention to begin the fermentation process to make alcohol.
The only reason humans do intervene in the fermentation process is that
it is more efficient to make alcohol under controlled conditions, and a
better quality product is produced.
Another example of a natural product made from natural ingredients is
soap. Soap is made from fats and alkali. The process of putting the fat
and alkali together and forming soap can and does occur in nature, although
the process is uncommon. The first soaps were made from wood ashes -- a
natural alkali -- and oils, and they had a tendency toward harshness. Today
soaps made under controlled circumstances can result in products that are
extremely mild yet effective.
In contrast, an example of an 'artificial' product made from natural
ingredients is chocolate cake. The flour, sugar, cocoa, butter, eggs and
other ingredients are certainly natural, but cake would not exist on its
own without human intervention. The only way a cake can be produced is
when humans mix the appropriate ingredients and apply heat to it. Thus,
in the most basic definition, cake is an artificial product.
Do these examples square with the typical understanding of natural and
artificial? Well, perhaps the natural examples do, but generally one does
not see cake defined as an artificial product (at least not "made-from-scratch"
cakes), so thinking of 'artificial' in this way may require a paradigm
shift.
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| Artificial vs. Synthetic
Actually, most consumers think of 'artificial' and 'synthetic' as being
equivalent, but there is a clear distinction. While 'artificial' products
require human intervention, they can be made from natural ingredients.
On the other hand, 'synthetic' products not only require human intervention,
but they must be produced by chemical synthesis (i.e. the combining of
parts or elements so as to form a whole, a compound, etc., which would
occur only in a laboratory). In other words, synthetic products are made
from ingredients that do not occur in nature, or, at the very least, from
ingredients that do not occur independently in nature.
Why this distinction? Because many of the chemical ingredients used
to create synthetic products do occur in nature. Many of the organic chemicals
that are commonly used in manufacturing processes are found in small quantities
in plant matter. In fact, ancient plant matter is the source of the petroleum
that is the basis from which many of these chemicals are derived. |
| Organic versus Organic
The scientific definition of organic is "of, like or derived from living
organisms."
The common public interpretation of organic is as in 'organic food,'
which is "a plant product grown without pesticides or synthetic chemical
fertilizers and meeting other standards as put forth by the state in which
the product is grown."
There is a HUGE difference between these two descriptions, but
manufacturers are not required to define their interpretation of the term
'organic' when used on any product other than an agricultural one. |
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| Technically speaking, some chemicals derived from petroleum
can be defined as 'natural' as long as they also exist 'naturally' in other
biological sources. Many scientists will argue that the word 'natural'
has little meaning because many of the industrial chemicals that consumers
want to avoid come from natural sources and are therefore 'natural' themselves.
The difference between chemicals existing in natural products and being
derived from natural products is that single compounds almost never exist
in nature. While the chemical called 'phenol' may be a component of a naturally
occurring product, such as a plant, phenol does not occur by itself. The
only way for phenol to exist by itself, which it must if it is going to
be used as an ingredient in a product or process, is for humans to separate
the phenol from the original source. When human intervention is introduced
the end product ceases to be natural.
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| Further, synthetic ingredients can be made from 'natural' sources.
Strictly speaking, there is no difference between crude petroleum and fresh
sources except time and physics. In other words, a product derived only
in the laboratory is no more natural when it is derived from a fresh product,
such as coconut oil, than it would if it were derived from crude petroleum.
The primary difference is that coconut oil is a renewable source while
crude oil is not, but a compound derived from coconut oil is absolutely
no different chemically than the same compound derived from crude oil (though
there are many who would argue this point with me).
This is the gray area of the 'natural product' debate.
Determining the 'naturalness' of a product
When a consumer is trying to decide how natural a product is, they often
look to the label for information. Manufacturers know this. They also know
that 'natural' can be so loosely defined that they can state on their label
"contains no synthetic ingredients" or "derived from natural sources" and
be within the letter of the law, even if the product itself is not natural.
This can make it virtually impossible to be an informed shopper if one
is not armed with a virtual arsenal of ingredient information.
When it comes to personal products, manufacturers are required by law
to list the ingredients in the product. However, this is not the case with
many other products used around the home, and it is very difficult to obtain
ingredient information from the manufacturer.
While the personal product labeling law does provide some information
to the consumer, it is not by any means perfect. The problem is that while
the FDA does technically regulate personal products, there is very little
enforcement of the laws. Thus, many manufacturers get away with mislabeling
by hiding ingredients under pseudonyms (i.e. not using the accepted chemical
name for an ingredient), or by dropping some ingredients from the label
all together.
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| The building blocks of synthetic chemicals
In pure synthetic chemistry, organic chemical compounds are made from
small building blocks of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. In theory one could
take the individual atoms and put them together to form whole compounds,
but in reality this rarely, if ever works. It is far more efficient to
derive synthetic compounds from larger building blocks that occur naturally.
For example, the synthetic shampoo ingredient 'Sodium Lauryl Sulfate' is
made from the naturally occurring Lauric Acid, which is one of the 'fatty
acids' that make up oils. Coconut oil is very high in Lauric Acid, so it
is often used as the source because it is more efficient to derive it from
coconut oil than from other sources. However, when compared to petroleum
derived sources, coconut oil is more expensive, so some manufacturers may
opt for the cheaper petroleum based version of Lauric Acid rather than
coconut based. Either way, the resulting Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is chemically
equivalent. |
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| For products that aren't subject to labeling laws, the
consumer is on their own to determine the relative naturalness of a product.
While manufacturers do not have to list ingredients on their labels, they
are required to list all hazardous ingredients on a document called a Material
Safety Data Sheet. (Click
here to see some MSDSs for common household products)
An MSDS is primarily intended for use by emergency personnel in the
event of an accident involving large quantities of the product, but it
is also supposed to be made available to the public through the Superfund
Amendments Reauthorization Act (SARA) Title IX Community Right to Know
law. Unfortunately, loopholes in the law allow manufacturers to claim that
ingredients are 'proprietary' and are therefor exempt from listing them
specifically. However, they are still required to provide all health and
safety information related to the product. Sometimes this information is
useful, but often it is not. Further, a consumer most often must ask the
manufacturer for a copy of the MSDS, and while they are supposed to comply
with the law they often do not.
To further complicate matters, the ingredients listed on a label may
either reflect the starting ingredients (i.e. the flour, sugar and eggs
in a cake), or they may reflect the results of the chemical reaction of
the ingredients after they are added together.
For example, a bar of soap may list the following ingredients:
"Olive oil, Palm oil, Coconut oil, water, sodium hydroxide"
Or it may list:
"Sodium Olivate, Sodium Palmitate, Sodium Cocoate, glycerine"
From the consumer's point of view, the first list of ingredients appears
more natural than the second list, but both accurately reflect the product.
The confusion comes when a product contains both natural and synthetic
ingredients. It is often difficult for a consumer to distinguish the difference
between the natural and synthetic ingredients when the chemical names are
used.
Consumers who truly wish to understand the ingredients listed on a label
should refer to a good chemical dictionary such as "Milady's
Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary" by Natalia Michalun,
M. Varinia Michalun. While this book doesn't go into much detail about
the ingredients, it will help the consumer start to identify those that
are naturally occurring and those that are synthesized in the laboratory.
What difference does it make?
This is truly the crux of the whole 'natural product'debate. Whether
one decides to use only completely natural products or products synthetically
derived from natural plant sources or a combination of the two is a personal
decision. While most people believe that 'natural' equals 'non-toxic,'
this isn't necessarily the case. Many naturally occurring chemicals can
have harmful effects on humans, while in some cases their synthetic cousins
may have the toxic component removed.
When it comes to using natural products, personal values systems are
often put to the test. If personal health is the reason you are looking
for natural products, then you have to know something about the health
effects of the various ingredients. In many cases the ingredients added
to enhance the benefits of a product also carry some sort of health effect,
from mild to severe.
Some of these ingredients may be sensitizers, irritants,
neurotoxins or carcinogens, or they may enhance the toxicity of another
ingredient (be chemical synergists). In fact, it is often hard to judge
the overall health impact of a synthetic product from the ingredients because
finished products are rarely tested and therefore the synergistic effect
of the product is unknown.
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| 'Synergism' is the combined action of a chemical mixture being
greater in total effect than the sum of their individual effects |
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| The problem with selecting only 'all natural' products
is that one might compromise on product effectiveness. This is one reason
that so many synthetic products exist on store shelves today.
In some cases, products derived from synthetic ingredients may be superior
to their natural cousins. This is certainly the case for soap when it is
used for anything other than cleaning the skin. Natural soap can be excellent
for cleaning skin because the oils in the soap help replenish the skin's
natural oils, and they provide nutrients such as vitamins. But when it
comes to cleaning fibers or hard surfaces, natural soap does not do nearly
as good a job. When used in laundry, for example, soap can build up in
fabric fibers and cause 'soap scum' to form in the washing machine. The
same is true when soap is used as a shampoo -- the soap will build up on
the hair shaft and create mineral deposits that are not easily removed.
So for some purposes, cleansers made with synthetic ingredients are superior
to their natural equivalents -- provided that the synthetic ingredients
are not toxic.
When it comes to personal care products especially, selecting products
of least toxicity is important. Personal care products, of all the products
we use around our homes, are the one class of products that come in contact
with our skin or lungs on the most frequent basis. The skin is not an impermeable
barrier, and in some cases, products are formulated specifically to penetrate
the skin. When a product applied to the skin penetrates the skin then
it will carry whatever chemicals are present in the product into the bloodstream
and be distributed throughout the body. Additionally, some products that
also contain volatile ingredients (e.g. fragrances) can be both absorbed
by the skin and inhaled by the lungs, thus increasing one's exposure to
the hazardous effects of the ingredients.
If toxicity is not the issue when comparing a natural to a synthetic
product, then environmental impact is. While 'all natural' products use
renewable resources in their native form (or close to their native form,
as vegetable oils, for example, must be pressed from their original source),
products made from synthetic ingredients produce waste products in the
process of their creation. Further, they may also require the use of hazardous
or toxic chemicals in the production process, even if the final product
itself is not hazardous or toxic and contains no traces of the hazardous/toxic
intermediate. By using a process that may be inherently hazardous, a non-toxic
synthetic ingredient may put humans and the environment at risk. Thus,
when toxicity and effectiveness of a product are virtually equivalent,
the 'all natural' product is definitely the better choice.
When choosing to be a safe shopper one must also become a savvy shopper.
It isn't enough to look for the words 'natural' or 'organic' on a label
-- one must closely examine the ingredients, ask questions about manufacturing
processes, and weigh the overall value and impact of one product against
its synthetic equivalent. |
By Andrea DesJardins
2000, All rights reserved. This article may be printed for personal use. All other uses must retain this copyright notice, a link to our website (http://www.herc.org), and must not be reprinted for sale.
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